Patrick Leigh Fermor, February 11, 1915–June 10, 2011, was an intrepid traveller, a heroic soldier, and a writer with a unique prose style. After his stormy school days, followed by the walk across Europe to Constantinople that begins in A Time of Gifts: On Foot to Constantinople—From the Hook of Holland to the Middle Danube (1977), continues with Between the Woods and the Water: On Foot to Constantinople from the Hook of Holland—The Middle Danube to the Iron Gates (1986), and finishes in his yet-to-be-published final book of the trilogy, he lived and travelled in the Balkans and the Greek Archipelago. His books Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese (1958) and Roumeli: Travels in Northern Greece (1966) attest to his deep interest in languages and remote places. In the Second World War he joined the Irish Guards, became a liaison officer in Albania, and fought in Greece and Crete. He was awarded the DSO and OBE. He lived partly in Greece—in the house he designed with his wife, Joan Elizabeth Rayner, nee Eyres Monsell, in an olive grove in the Mani—and partly in Worcestershire. He was knighted in 2004 for his services to literature and to British–Greek relations. He is considered by some to be the best writer of travel literature.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

John Everett Millais


The North-West Passage by John Everett Millais, 1874, oil on canvas, 69½ x 87½ in, Tate Gallery, London, UK
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

The north-west passage was the sea route round the north of the American continent which was thought to provide a passage to China and the East. Several arctic expeditions had tried and failed to find it. Millais painted this picture in 1874 just when another English expedition was preparing to set off on the same voyage. When the picture was shown at the Royal Academy in 1874 it was accompanied by the lines ‘It might be done, and England should do it’. This patriotic message is underlined by the presence of the Union Flag draped over a screen.
From the display caption July 2007, Tate Collection, Tate Gallery, London


The Vale of Rest by John Everett Millais, 1858, partially repainted 1862, oil on canvas, 40½ x 68 in, Tate Gallery, London, UK. Presented by Sir Henry Tate, 1894.
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

In this painting Millais consciously set out to create a mood, rather than tell a particular story. The subject is mortality, set appropriately in a graveyard. The title and subtitle, Where the weary find repose, both come from a song from Mendelssohn’s Sechs Lieder (Six Songs). Millais heard his brother William singing the song and felt it suited the picture perfectly. The work evokes the mysticism of religion, showing two nuns, one digging a grave, the other, whose rosary has a skull attached to it, looking wistfully towards the viewer. Above the distant belfry is a coffin-shaped cloud: in Scottish folklore a premonition of death.

From the display caption September 2004, Tate Collection, Tate Gallery, London



Ophelia by John Everett Millais, 1852, oil on canvas, 76 x 112 cm, Tate Gallery, London, UK
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

Easily my favourite Pre-Raphaelite painting and another Brotherhood painter I admire.


The Eve of Saint Agnes by John Everett Millais, 1863, oil on canvas, HM The Queen—The Royal Collection, purchased by HM Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother. Also captioned as Madeleine undressing on Wikipedia.
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

The title comes from the day (or evening) before the feast of Saint Agnes (or St. Agnes’ Eve). St. Agnes, the patron saint of virgins, died a martyr in fourth century Rome. The eve falls on January 20; the feast day on the 21. The divinations referred to by Keats in this poem are referred to by John Aubrey in his Miscellanies (1696) as being associated with St. Agnes’ night. “The Eve of St. Agnes” is a long poem (42 stanzas) by John Keats, written in 1819 and published in 1820. It is widely considered to be amongst his finest poems and was influential in 19th century literature.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


St. Agnes’ Eve—Ah, bitter chill it was!

The owl, for all his feathers, was a-cold;

The hare limp’d trembling through the frozen grass,

And silent was the flock in woolly fold:

Numb were the Beadsman’s fingers, while he told

His rosary, and while his frosted breath,

Like pious incense from a censer old,

Seem’d taking flight for heaven, without a death,

Past the sweet Virgin’s picture, while his prayer he saith.

John Keats, first stanza of “The Eve of St. Agnes”



A Dream of the Past—Sir Isumbras at the Ford by John Everett Millais, 1857, oil on canvas, 49 x 67 in, Lady Lever Art Gallery, Port Sunlight, Merseyside, UK
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

William Holman Hunt


The Awakening Conscience by William Holman Hunt, 1853, oil on canvas, 76 x 56 cm, Tate Gallery, London, UK
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

The above is one of my all-time favourite canvases. I love the expression on the young womans face. She is beautiful.


The Light of the World by William Holman Hunt, 1851, oil on canvas, Manchester Art Gallery, Manchester, UK
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


The Shadow of Death by William Holman Hunt, 1871, oil on canvas, 214.2 x 168.2 cm, Manchester Art Gallery, Manchester, UK
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


The Hireling Shepherd by William Holman Hunt, 1851, oil on canvas, Manchester City Galleries, Manchester, UK
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood is an art movement I much admire. I consider many of its artists among my favourites, and many of their masterpieces are paintings I like immensely. I have not yet visited the UK besides transitting between flights at Heathrow or refuelling at Prestwick, Scotland. Some day I plan to visit the Tate and others such as the Manchester.

Monday, January 18, 2010

My son




Cohen arriving home at YSJ (Saint John Airport) after a month of visiting in Vancouver, summer 2009.








A friend of my son commented on this photo, “Cohen, you look epic.” My son, Cohen Isaac Scharnberg (O’Connor), and I are close since his birth. When he was 9½ years old, March 2002, his mother moved back to her hometown of Saint John, New Brunswick, taking him and his older sister with her, with my reluctant blessing, this after a year of much thought and seeking some legal advice on my part. We talk every weekend and I fly him out to the West Coast every summer. Except for the first, the photographs, in no particular order from 2008 and 2009, are taken by I-don’t-know-which family members and friends, so I’ll attribute them to him. Cohen has a droll sense of humour. He and his friends are typical teens in some ways, yet unique and independent-minded in other ways. They stay out of trouble. Saint John is one of those cities where many people still leave car and house doors unlocked, and crime is rather low in comparison to the big urban sprawls of Toronto, Montréal, Vancouver, and the like. People in New Brunswick, like the other Maritimers, are a friendly lot. I have visited there a couple of times. The city has much history behind her. The province is beautiful summer or winter, the two seasons I have visited her. To visitors from out-of-province, they kindly say, “You’re from away.”


© Copyright photograph by Joseph P.O. Comeau, 2009

© Copyright photographs by Cohen Isaac Scharnberg, 2008–2009

Into the mists ...



Saturday, January 16, 2010.

© Copyright photographs by Viktoria Iakovleva, January 2010

Friday, January 15, 2010

Lake Geneva from Saint-Prex


Der Genfersee von Saint-Prex aus (Lac Léman vu de Saint-Prex) (Lake Geneva from Saint-Prex) by Ferdinand Hodler, 1901, oil on canvas, 72 x 107 cm, sold to an anonymous bidder at Sothebys Zurich, Tuesday, June 5, 2007. It set a new record price for the artist at sFr. 10.9 million (about $8.9 million US that year).
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

This pastoral, idyllic view of the lake and the French Alps was painted from a meadow, the area now home to farms, houses, and vineyards. I would love to know the precise location of this view, then find the coordinates on a map. I had an almost identical view from my bedroom in Maison Blanchefleur in the third year (1986–1987) of my three years studies as a Special Educator in Curative Education, a witness to the sunrises from Valais and the Rhône valley, from the left, and sunsets behind the Jura mountains, to the right a little over my right shoulder. There is the possibility Hodler painted this landscape from at or near where the Camphill community, Fondation Perceval, sits today, and the Genève–Lausanne Autoroute suisse A1 (freeway) immediately behind Perceval and the viewer. As Ive said before, I lived here 1982–1987. I had a similar view, a little closer to the village of St-Prex at the lakeshore, in my second year, at Maison St-Martin a few kilometres west of the main property of the community. In the first year I had a quaint bedroom on the ground floor near the front door of Maison François, alas, in recent years replaced by a new house on the same site. During my practicum, I lived at first in the west end of the attic of Maison François, with a view of Etoy, the rooftops of Aubonne, and the Jura sunsets. Then, the last few months of the practicum, in a cave-like basement room in the same house.

Friday, January 8, 2010

Hotel du Lac by Anita Brookner


Hotel du Lac by Anita Brookner (Penguin Books, London, 1993) paperback (first published by Jonathan Cape, 1984)


This novel is an underrated gem. It is a must-read for any serious lover of words, writers, and books. Writers wanting to learn about writing fiction are advised to develop an intimate relationship with this classic.


Brookner captures the female and writer’s mind and inner life with great depth and feeling, evokes the Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) region with precision. I lived in that world, a microcosmic Mediterranean-like climate, 1982–1987.


Despite its obvious qualities as of the first page, the first sentence, I was initially irritated, trying to decipher where the hotel is situated, in my mind measuring times and distances from Genève and Cointrin International Airport. The half hour travel time to the village and the hotel, Brookner allows Edith Hope, appears to me inaccurate and insufficient. I watched for clues, rediscovering the Dent d’Oche, the shoreline details, the large castle nearby (clearly the Château de Chillon of Byronic fame and Gustave Courbet canvas). Clues were revealed word by word as I carefully read along, walking those familiar shores. I saw again, also, the Rochers de Naye up behind, her slopes of green meadows and the deadly but homeopathic medicinal nightshade, Belladonna (Atropa belladonna), in September, the same time of year as in the story. The subtle descriptions of the sun and the weather are precise, accurate, just as I experienced them, my memories of them, surfacing from the depths of the lake, matching those in the story. The Hotel du Lac—there are many examples of this sort of establishment along the lemanic shores—is somewhere immediately west or east of Chillon, possibly in a village such as Villeneuve, Grandchamp, Veytaux, or Territet. To the west are Montreux, La Tour-de-Peilz, Vevey, the terrassed vineyards descend to meet the lake, and Lausanne. At the eastern end the Rhône flows into the Léman near La Petite Camarque, then there is Bouveret and the Route Cantonale 21 to St-Gingolph straddling the Switzerland–France border, the Dent d’Oche up behind on the Swiss side.


Anyone in a relationship and anyone not in a relationship—and that means everybody, women and men—should read what Brookner has to say about certain women, and of men. I relate to Mr. Neville quite strongly. What Mr. Neville says, p. 96, is a most important detail: “You cannot live someone else’s life. You can only live your own.…” Make it a personal motto, a mantra: “I cannot live someones else’s life, I can only live my own.” I know I must heed these words.


Some reviewers have stated the importance of women, and men too, reading this book. Unfortunately, those men most in need of this homeopathic dose of life, people, and relationships, are also the least likely to read what they would consider a woman’s book, or any novel, any book, for that matter.


Another important detail, one of those scents or road signs, reminding the reader of the underlying current of this story, is on p. 124, “… before you sail off into the blue.” When you get to this sentence you will understand.


Read slowly and carefully, with conscious precision. You must love words, writers, and books for the full experience of this masterpiece.


Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Three Kings Day


The Flight into Egypt by Giotto di Bondone, 1304–1306, Scrovegni Chapel, Padua, Italia
This image is in the public domain because under United States copyright law, originality of expression is necessary for copyright protection, and a mere photograph of an out-of-copyright two-dimensional work may not be protected under American copyright law. The official position of the Wikimedia Foundation is that all reproductions of public domain works should be considered to be in the public domain regardless of their country of origin (even in countries where mere labor is enough to make a reproduction eligible for protection).

The flight into Egypt is a biblical event described in the Gospel of Matthew, 2:13–23, in which Joseph fled to Egypt with his wife Mary and infant son Jesus after a visit by [the] Magi because they learn that King Herod intends to kill the infants of that area. The episode is frequently shown in art, as the final episode of the Nativity of Jesus in art, and was a common component in cycles of the Life of the Virgin as well as the Life of Christ.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Adoration of the Magi by Gentile da Fabriano, 1423, tempera on panel, 300 x 282 cm, Galleria degli Uffizi, Firenze, Italia
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


Adoration of the Magi by Sandro Botticelli, c. 1475–1476, oil on panel, 111 x 134 cm, Galleria degli Uffizi, Firenze, Italia
The work of art depicted in this image and the reproduction thereof are in the public domain worldwide. The reproduction is part of a collection of reproductions compiled by The Yorck Project. The compilation copyright is held by Zenodot Verlagsgesellschaft mbH and licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License.

Today is the last official day of Christmas, the end of the Twelve Days of Christmas, and the last day of the traditional German Christmas, Weihnachten, as I know it from childhood. I have visited these two Adoration paintings twice at the Offices (Uffizi), Easter 1986 and mid-September 2006. They are stunningly beautiful. I stand before them in awe and veneration. A warm glow bathes my heart.

... It will be obvious to you that very profound symbolism is contained in the Festival of the Three Magi from the East. Until the 15th century, this symbolism was kept very secret and no definite indications were available. But since that century some light has been thrown on the Festival of the Magi by exoteric presentations. One of the Three Kings—Caspar—is portrayed as a Moor, an inhabitant of Africa; one as a white man, a European—Melchior; and one—Balthasar—as an Asiatic; the colour of his skin is that of an inhabitant of India. They bring Myrrh, Gold and Frankincense as offerings to the Child Jesus in Bethlehem.
Rudolf Steiner, from “Lecture VI: On The Three Magi”, Berlin, 30 December 1904, The Festivals and Their Meaning: I, Christmas, GA 60b

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

Walking in cities


Twilight by Edmund (Ödön) Tull, Paris, 1897, oil on canvas, 81 x 65 cm, on auction in 2005 at the Judit Virág Gallery and Auction House, Budapest, Hungary. Current location unknown.
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

Note the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris in the background. To date, I have visited Paris three times, criss-crossing many of her neighbourhoods: Christmas 1982, early September 2006, and late September 2006. The City of Lights is my favourite city.


La Tour Eiffel by Georges Seurat, 1889, oil on canvas, 24 x 15.2 cm, Fine Arts Museum, San Francisco, California, USA
The work of art depicted in this image and the reproduction thereof are in the public domain worldwide. The reproduction is part of a collection of reproductions compiled by The Yorck Project. The compilation copyright is held by Zenodot Verlagsgesellschaft mbH and licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License.

A wonderful view of Paris is to be had from the top deck of the Eiffel Tower, well worth the time, effort, crowds, and money.


L’Avenue de la Gare à Nice par Louis Béroud, before 1930, Musée Massena, Nice, France
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

Nice is nice, Nice was nice, late September 2006.


Le boulevard de Clichy, la neige by Paul Signac, 1886, The Minneapolis Institute of Arts, Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

This route runs out the northwest of Paris. Nearby I stayed at the Hostelling International Auberge de Jeunesse (Youth Hostel), early September 2006. My first visit, Christmas 1982, a full century following this painting.


Hamburger Hafen von Friedrich Kallmorgen, 1910, Öl auf Leinwand, 51,5 x 40 cm, Düsseldorfer Auktionshaus, Düsseldorf, Nordrhein-Westfalen, Deutschland
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

The Hansestadt is my ancestral home port and city. “Hummel Hummel Mors Mors”.


Der Hamburger Hafen mit reicher Schiffsstaffage von Alfred Renz, Öl auf Leinwand, 62 x 75,5 cm, Hampel Fine Art Auctions, Schellingstr. 44, D-80799 München, Deutschland
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


Regen, Berlin 1917 von Hans Baluschek, 1917, Gouache und Farbkreiden auf Velin, 49,5 x 33 cm, Villa Grisebach, Fasanenstr. 25, D-10719 Berlin, Deutschland
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

Despite my five years in Switzerland, hitch-hiking the length and breadth of West Germany each summer, 1982–1987, I only visited Berlin for the first time in mid-September 2006, and immediately fell in love with her.


Spaziergänger im Regen vor Pferdedroschke von Lesser Ury, 1919, Radierung, 20,8 x 14,8 cm (Plattenrand), Galerie Bassenge, Erdener Straße 5a, D-14193 Berlin-Grunewald, Deutschland
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


Nollendorfplatz von Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, 1912, Öl auf Leinwand, 69 x 60 cm, Stiftung Stadtmuseum Berlin, Berlin, Deutschland
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


Kassel. Bellevue, Blick auf die Aue vom Generalkommando aus von Louis Kolitz, Gouache, 21,5 x 36 cm, Auktionshaus Michael Zeller, Bindergasse 7, D-88131 Lindau im Bodensee, Deutschland
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

I once knew two wonderful sisters from Kassel, visiting them at their parental home, late September 1989. Ah, Almut Weigandt and Gudrun Weigandt, where are you beauties now?


Blick aus der Grimmschen Wohnung in die Marktgasse von Kassel von Ludwig Emil Grimm (Die Markt Gasse gez. den 28 July 1842. Morgens v. 10 bis 12 Uhr. Cassel), 1842, Hessisches Staatsarchiv Marburg (Leihgabe an das Brüder-Grimm-Museum Kassel), Marburg, Hessen, Deutschland
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


Köln–Heumarkt–Unter Hutmacher–rechts Torbogen zur Fleischhalle von Wilhelm Scheiner, www.kunstbilder-galerie.de
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


München von südwest von Michael Zeno Diemer, spätestens 1939, www.ak-ansichtskarten.de
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


München Marienplatz bei Schnee von Michael Zeno Diemer, 1899 oder früher, www.ak-ansichtskarten.de
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


München Blick vom Maximilianeum von Michael Zeno Diemer, 1899 oder früher, www.ak-ansichtskarten.de
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


Dante meets Beatrice at Ponte Santa Trinita by Henry Holiday, 1883, oil on canvas, 140 x 199 cm, National Museums and Galleries on Merseyside, Liverpool, UK. Depicted are the river Arno and the Ponte Vecchio, Firenze, Italia. Here Dante Alighieri meets Beatrice Portinari, in white, strolling along the Arno with her friend, Lady Vanna.
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

I have enjoyed the streets, alleys, and many sights in Florence twice—Easter 1986 and mid-September 2006.


Venice at Dusk by Miklós Barabás, 1834, watercolour on paper, 136 x 183 mm, Hungarian National Gallery, Budapest, Hungary
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.


Byron in Venice by Ivan Constantinovich Aivazovsky, date unknown, oil on canvas, 107 x 82 cm, Galerie Köller, Zürich, Schweiz
This image is in the public domain because its copyright has expired.

For a change, I am not posting of paintings I have seen, but rather, using them to represent a few of the cities I have walked in. Walking is the ultimate mode of transport. As much as I enjoy, very much so, flying, ships, train travel, driving—particularily if it is a vintage Volkswagen or a classic Mercedes, public transit, mopeds, and bicycling—walking and hiking is it. The perfect companion to this is Patrick Leigh Fermor’s A Time of Gifts: On Foot to Constantinople—from the Hook of Holland to the Middle Danube and Between the Woods and the Water: On Foot to Constantinople from the Hook of Holland—The Middle Danube to the Iron Gates. It offers the serious reader of travel literature the best inspiration to walk and hike.

As for cities I have walked the breadth and width of, there are many. Some of the greater and lesser cities are: Paris, Hamburg, Vancouver, Victoria, Nanaimo, Kelowna, Calgary, Grande Prairie, Saint John, Moncton, Seattle, Bellingham, Everett, Portland, San Francisco, Bakersfield, Palm Springs, Hermosillo, Guaymas, Ciudad Obregon, Berlin, Stuttgart, Konstanz, München, Köln, Lausanne, Genève, Montreux, Zürich, Bern, Basel, Winterthur, Nice, Firenze, Venezia, Roma, Milano, L’Aquila, Barcelona, Luxembourg, and Monte Carlo.

On foot I see things and meet people I would miss by other means of forward motion (or backward!), at a depth of experience unsurpassable by any other method of getting around. All I need is a good, sturdy pair of walking shoes, a hat, a jacket, a camera, notebook and pencil, a few good maps, passport and wallet, and an open mind. My curiosity knows no bounds.