WORDS & ROADS: September 2010

Patrick Leigh Fermor, February 11, 1915–June 10, 2011, was an intrepid traveller, a heroic soldier, and a writer with a unique prose style. After his stormy school days, followed by the walk across Europe to Constantinople that begins in A Time of Gifts: On Foot to Constantinople—From the Hook of Holland to the Middle Danube (1977), continues with Between the Woods and the Water: On Foot to Constantinople from the Hook of Holland—The Middle Danube to the Iron Gates (1986), and finishes in his yet-to-be-published final book of the trilogy, he lived and travelled in the Balkans and the Greek Archipelago. His books Mani: Travels in the Southern Peloponnese (1958) and Roumeli: Travels in Northern Greece (1966) attest to his deep interest in languages and remote places. In the Second World War he joined the Irish Guards, became a liaison officer in Albania, and fought in Greece and Crete. He was awarded the DSO and OBE. He lived partly in Greece—in the house he designed with his wife, Joan Elizabeth Rayner, nee Eyres Monsell, in an olive grove in the Mani—and partly in Worcestershire. He was knighted in 2004 for his services to literature and to British–Greek relations. He is considered by some to be the best writer of travel literature.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Ainsworth Hot Springs, summer 1966

We were either on our way to the famous Ainsworth Hot Springs, Kootenay Lake, in the British Columbia Kootenays, or, had already carefully immersed our toes, then legs, and slowly up to our necks, in the steamed heat. I can not clearly recall.

I remember the place seemed creepy and of some dark, fear-inducing nooks and crannies. In those days the place was not developed to the degree they say it is today. Bricked or cement turquoise archways marked the openings of the caves.

The main road was dusty gravel. It was hot, the skies a cloudless blue. Even then at not quite four years old I already pondered the skies, the clouds, the vast expanse beyond.

Father was driving our 1965 VW Type 2 (T1c) Model 231 (cargo doors right, left hand drive) Kombi purchased new the previous summer at Volkswagen Pacific in Vancouver, VIN 235 xxx xxx, strangely enough, with Model 221 Standard Microbus colour scheme of exterior body colours, L289 (17) blue white above waistline, L512 (38) velvet green below waistline, upholstery in mesh grey (83), sporting 14-inch wheels, front signals in amber, basic interior of just a back bench immediately fore of the engine compartment, no middle bench, no interior headliner or side panels, no carpet, just interior hardboard panels in the front cab section, covering the doors, roof, and behind the nose.

Anya was still a baby, tucked into her wicker basket on the back bench. Hayo and I sat, often cross-legged, in the rear over the 53-hp 1493-cc (1500) four-cylinder, horizontally-opposed, air-cooled engine, engine number code starting with H and followed by seven digits, with Solex 30 PICT-1 carburetor. I remember feeling the vibrations of the motor through the gears. My brother was very curious. He still is. I dreamily watched him play with the inside of the rear hatch latch. It eventually popped open. Bye-bye, brother. Dust swirled behind the bus, my brother small in the distance. I nonchalantly said, in German: “Oh, oh. Hayo fell out.” My mother was very upset. Father pulled over and turned around.

Hayo was found with no more than dust and a few light marks on his person. He said he saw a clown on the road. He talked of this several times in the following days. He still remembers to this day.